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20 febbraio Xbox 360 Atari/Amiga/C64/Spectrum Joystick InterfaceWhen I used to play Sensible Soccer on my Atari ST, I used a Competition Pro 5000 Glo Green joystick. It was perfect- tough, precise, and responsive. Codemasters will soon be releasing Sensible Soccer for the Xbox 360, but would it be the same to play it with the 360 controller's imprecise analogue stick or mushy D-pad? In preperation I decided to dust off my old Competition Pro and see if I could find a way to connect it to my Xbox 360.
I went over to EB Games and bought an ugly blue GameStop wired controller. It's not as nice as an official Microsoft one, but has the big advantage of being half the price (especially important in case I screw up and break it). As a bonus it has no funny 'Torx-with-a-hole-in' security screws, and has nice big contacts on the directional pad for easy soldering. Once I'd soldered the leads onto the board, I plugged the controller into my PC and tested the connections' relative voltages looking for a common ground etc. I played around cross-connecting them in different ways using the driver properties dialog to see what inputs the controller was seeing. Unfortunately there was no common ground, which a standard 'Atari' DB-9 joystick uses. Even more unfortunately any cross-connections (e.g. connecting the 'up' +ve to the 'button A' -ve) caused other inputs to be detected. I found an easy place to access the USB +5v and ground, but I needed to keep this isolated from the signals on the pads. I came up with the idea of using a Phototransistor Optocoupler for each signal. It works like a solid state relay. The joystick plugged into the DB-9 connector switches each optocoupler, which simulates the button press. I can add more detail on this if anyone's interested in replicating this. The Kempston/Atari joystick replaces the directional pad, with the 'fire' button mapped to Button A. The standard Atari-style pinout only allows for one joystick button, and the majority of retro arcade titles only need Button A.
I didn't need the directional pad anymore, so I put the connector in the space that it left. A bit of dremelling helped the DB-9 connector to sit flush with the case:
Back of the DB-9 connector, I just soldered the optocouplers and resistors straight onto the back:
The DB-9 connector again, with joystick plugged in this time:
Here's the finished article, plugged in and playing 'Frogger' or something similar. The whole controller still works, apart from the directional pad of course. I was careful to keep my soldering 'flat' around the A button, so that it still works (although it's a bit firmer now):
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